Book your check-up before May. That’s the simplest way to avoid the July scramble when the first real heat hits. Techs get swamped, and suddenly you’re waiting days with a broken unit and 29°C indoors. A quick spring inspection–filters, coils, wiring–can prevent all of that. It’s not thrilling, but neither is sweating through dinner because a capacitor failed.
Set a calendar reminder every six months. Even if nothing seems off. Quiet issues creep up–like a blower fan losing strength or a drain line starting to clog. You probably won’t notice until comfort drops or energy bills spike. It’s better to catch the slow build-up before you’re forced into last-minute repairs (which, by the way, always seem more expensive).
One small tip: if the outdoor unit’s louder than usual or the airflow feels weaker, don’t ignore it. Those are early flags. Maybe the refrigerant’s low. Maybe a part’s wearing out. Either way, it’s cheaper to handle early.
For houses built pre-2000, consider an upgrade schedule. Older setups often rely on outdated controls or inefficient compressors. Not always failing–but slowly draining money every month. Modern systems with variable-speed motors can make a surprising difference. I didn’t expect mine to cut hydro costs by over 20%, but it did.
Lastly, ask about duct sealing. Especially if some rooms run hotter than others. Small leaks around joints or vents can throw the whole system off balance, pushing it to work harder. A quick pressure test and sealant application can restore airflow and reduce runtime significantly.
How to Choose the Right Unit for Local Weather Conditions
Pick something with a high SEER2 rating–nothing below 15.2. Calgary summers aren’t brutal, but they’re getting warmer. The higher the rating, the less electricity you’ll burn during peak heat. Models between 16–18 SEER2 usually hit a sweet spot: decent upfront cost and reasonable monthly bills.
Size matters more than you think. Too small? It’ll run nonstop. Too big? You’ll get cold spots and short cycles. For a 1,500-square-foot house, you’re probably looking at 2.5 to 3 tons. But don’t guess. A proper Manual J load calculation–done by someone who knows what they’re doing–is the only way to get it right. Just going off square footage doesn’t cut it.
Stick with scroll compressors. They’re quieter and hold up better over time. Single-stage units are cheaper, but you might regret it during heat waves. Two-stage or variable-speed setups cost more, but they run longer at lower speeds, which keeps indoor temps steady and humidity down.
Look at noise levels, too. Anything over 70 decibels can get annoying, especially in tighter neighbourhoods. Check the specs–many decent models hover around 55 to 68 dB.
Local winters mean the unit will sit unused for half the year. Make sure it’s got corrosion-resistant parts. Powder-coated cabinets, composite base pans–those little things matter when it sits through months of snow and melt cycles.
And while it’s tempting to go with something from a big-box store, the install matters more than the brand. A mid-range unit put in properly will almost always outperform a premium one installed poorly. Ask questions. Ask about their install checklist. If they can’t walk you through it, maybe keep looking.
Step-by-Step Maintenance Checklist for Homeowners Before Summer
Change the filter–don’t delay. A clogged one restricts airflow and forces the unit to work harder, spiking energy bills. For most setups, replacing the filter every 60–90 days is fine, but if you have pets or allergies, monthly swaps are safer. Mark a recurring reminder; it’s easy to forget.
Inspect the outdoor unit. Remove leaves, twigs, or anything else crowding the fins. Clearance of at least 24 inches on all sides helps keep airflow smooth. If it looks like the metal fins are bent, a fin comb (yes, that’s a thing) can help straighten them gently. Or just leave it and call someone later–honestly, it depends on how handy you are.
Check the thermostat settings. Make sure it still reads correctly. If you’ve been adjusting it all winter, it might be slightly off. Set it to cooling mode, drop the temperature a few degrees, and wait. If it kicks in within a minute or two, good. If not… well, that’s a red flag.
Clean the interior vents. Wipe them down with a damp cloth and make sure furniture or curtains aren’t blocking them. Blocked vents won’t cool the room evenly and can throw off the entire balance.
Look over the drain line. Find the PVC pipe near the indoor coil (usually in the basement or utility room). If it’s clogged, water backs up–sometimes quietly–and you won’t know until there’s a puddle. A quick vacuum with a shop vac at the end of the line can clear it. It’s a five-minute job.
Test the system early. Don’t wait until that first heatwave. Run it for at least 30 minutes on a mild day. Listen. Smell. Does it sound different? Any musty or burnt smell? That could be dust–or something worse. Catch it now, not during a +30°C week.
Seal up drafts around windows and doors. Not directly related to the unit itself, but a leaky home makes everything work harder. A quick check with your hand on a breezy day will tell you more than you think.
Keep blinds or curtains closed during peak sun hours. Less solar gain means less load. It’s simple, but surprisingly effective–especially on south and west-facing windows.
Review your energy bills. If usage is climbing compared to last year with no clear reason, that’s a clue. Something’s off, even if you can’t see it.
There’s more you *could* do, but honestly, these are the basics that catch most issues before they get annoying. If anything feels off, trust your gut. Or at least your ears.
When and Why to Call a Certified HVAC Technician in Calgary
If your cooling unit cycles on and off too frequently, even on mild days, it’s time to bring in a licensed technician. This usually points to deeper electrical or mechanical issues–not just a dirty filter.
- Noisy operation: Grinding, clicking, or high-pitched sounds usually signal fan motor trouble, refrigerant issues, or loose internal parts. These sounds won’t fix themselves and often get worse fast.
- Weak airflow: If you feel barely any air coming from vents, even with the fan on high, the blower motor or ductwork might be compromised. This isn’t a DIY fix–it needs diagnostics tools most homeowners don’t have.
- Uneven temperatures: When some rooms stay warm while others freeze, don’t assume it’s just poor insulation. Faulty dampers, sensor issues, or an unbalanced system layout could be to blame.
- Moisture buildup or leaks: Water pooling around your equipment? That’s usually clogged drainage or a failing condensate pump. Left alone, it can cause mould or even damage your home’s structure.
- Unexplained spikes in energy bills: If costs jump without a clear reason, it may be running longer than necessary to keep up. This often points to a failing compressor or low refrigerant levels.
Technicians with up-to-date Red Seal certification or apprenticeship training in Alberta standards will spot faults you might miss. And they won’t just patch things–they’ll check refrigerant pressure, electrical components, and airflow readings with calibrated instruments.
I once waited a few weeks too long after noticing odd clicking noises from my basement unit. By the time someone came out, the fan motor was burnt out. What could’ve been a small repair turned into a full replacement. Lesson learned–don’t wait for a total breakdown before getting a professional involved.
If your system is more than 10 years old and acting up regularly, that’s another reason to call. A technician can assess whether it’s still worth repairing or if replacement will save money over the next few seasons.
Contact “Calgary Air Heating and Cooling Ltd” For More Information:
Address
95 Beaconsfield Rise NW, Calgary, AB T3K 1X3
Phone
+1 403 720-0003
Hours of operation
Open 24 hours 7 days a week